GLW2402 : Baht 'at

Saturday 16th to Monday 18th March 2024

There is a learned debate about the meaning of “BAHT”.  Some think it’s the Thai unit of currency.  Others think it refers to the British Association of Hand Therapists.  However those of a certain age, with or without a drop of Yorkshire blood, know that means the absence of something, for instance head gear.  It is to be mortally regretted if one should venture forth on Ilkley Moor baht ‘at.

 It was Saturday and we were staying at the Wheatley Arms in Ben Rhydding, a stone’s throw from Ilkley.  It’s an oddball sort of hostelry.  

At first sight it looks like a throwback, almost to the Fawlty Towers sort of establishment.  However once entered, the bar area is a pleasant surprise.  Somewhat eccentric and surprisingly large.  

The greeting was warm and we were presented with the key to our room.

The stairs were worryingly steep and the bedroom too might be thought a bit of a throwback, especially the en-suite with a door that didn’t pass the sink, making access to the shower interesting.  However it was clean and comfortable so what more do you want?

On Saturday evening, we visited Bramhope, the village (or is it a suburb) of Margaret’s youth.  Driving around brought back many memories for her and some for me.

Back at the hotel, the restaurant was an extension of the bar area.  The staff were friendly and helpful.  The food was good and came remarkably quickly considering how busy they were.  Clearly it had a reputation as it is somewhat out of the way and passing trade would be minimal.

Sunday was our day to visit Leeds.  As Ben Rhydding has its own station just down the road from the hotel, we decided to travel by train, again surprisingly busy given the day.

Alighting at Central Station we wandered through streets that at one time were very familiar to both of us.  Much had changed but a lot remains more or less as we remembered.  The city seemed thriving and the arcades particularly attractive.  We had coffee in one then continued our exploration.  

The Corn Exchange was a revelation.  Very much an artisanmakert place, very nicely done up.

An intriguing slogan surrounded the balcony.

OUR PAST SHAPES OUR FUTURE.  BLOCK BY BLOCK WE BUILD FIRM FOUNDATIONS THAT TURN INTO SKY SCRAPERS.  FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS, BIG IGEAS, VISIONS TURNED INTO REAL LIFE FEATURES.

On Boar Lane we discovered one reason why there were so many people around.  In the distance was a marching band.  

Soon we realised it was much more than that- it was a full blown St Patrick’s day parade with lots of folk dressed partly in green walking with the bands or waving from wagons.  Had it been Liverpool, this would not have been a surprise, but in Leeds?  

One band caught the eye, or in particular the girl on the big bass drum caught our eyes, it was Amanda- Brian and Christine’s daughteron the big bass drum.

They continued on their way.  A marshal had a moan about this being the first of three events he had to man that afternoon.  After St Patrick would be Leeds versus Millwall- the team with the reputation of being followed by the worst thugs in the football leagues.  If he survived that, he then had a pro Palestine march with which to contend.

We headed back up through the shopping streets to the Headrow where we once again met the procession.

After a bit more wandering, in particular seeing Cookridge Street where Margaret used to catch the bus home, we chanced upon Millennium Square which neither of us remembered, probably because it wasn’t there when we were!  It was heaving with Irish and at the far end was a stage upon which a very large choir was singing beautifully.  After all those streets, broad and narrow, I quite expected to see Gareth Malone conducting.

The Art Gallery was a bit of a disappointment.  The upstairs room was closed which left only one room with traditional style paintings.  Some were very good but we had expected a larger collection to be on view.

Our wander continued to Park Square where I tried to find the old Provincial offices and Margaret where her dentist used to be.  Inconclusive.

The canal called next but we didn’t go the most efficient way so first found ourselves by the river.  

The distance walked (probably over 5 miles) was taking its toll so we stopped for a coffee in a smart hotel bar where a very drunken couple were draped all over each other until, the man noticed Leeds United score and leapt to his feet with such a huge, aggressive shout that the security men came rushing.

It was time to catch the train back to the hotel and another good meal, even though, with it being Sunday, it was rather earlier than we would have liked leaving us with rather a lot of time to explore the night time charms of Ben Rhydding or alternatively watch the TV.  The latter won.

Home on Monday but not before the mandatory trip “baht ‘at”.  Parking below the Cow and Calf, the obligatory photo was taken, then, donning sensible head gear to avoid the predicted demise, we climbed round and explored the said rocks before avoiding the temptations of Bettys in Ilkley and heading home.

Don, Wednesday 18th March 2024

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