GLW1204: In the Garden of Eden

Friday 25th May 2012

Are you old enough to remember Frankie Vaughan's big hit:

When you walk in the garden
In the garden of Eden
With a beautiful woman
And you know how you care
And the voice in the garden
In the Garden of Eden
Tells you she is forbidden
Can you leave her there?

For her birthday, I had promised to take Margaret to the Vale of Eden.  "Taking her" is a bit of a misnomer.  Now, now, don't be naughty!  I was referring to the next eight months, at least, before I get my licence back, during which time she is the one that has to do all the carrying and fetching, poor lass.

Of course, I had hoped she would have misheard me and cast off all her clothes, thinking I had indeed referred to the Garden thereof.  Wishful thinking!  But, ironically, the Garden of Eden turned out to be the highlight of our visit.

We arrived at the Black Swan Inn at Culgarth early enough for a pre-dinner stroll (once I overcame my panic and found the map which had fallen into a crevice in the car).

Culgarth is a pleasant, unpretentious little village in that unspoilt area between the Lake District and the Pennines'

The village pub, the Black Swan, had been done up as an attractive destination.

However, for our stroll, we parked close to the bridge over the Eden.

This stretch of the River Eden was a revelation.  Firstly there was an unusual piece of art Red River by Victoria Brailsford- one of ten Eden Benchmark sculptures, this one being a set of round balls located on the edge of a steep escarpment.

Next, we had not expected such dramatic red rock cliffs.  Very impressive.

Once round the bend of the river we headed east with Cross Fell and the mysterious golf ball contraption on Great Dun Fell clearly in view, to Temple Sowerby, a more picture book village, and through there, across curious-bull fields to Acorn Bank.

It was now early evening and this National Trust property was closed but there is a public footpath that goes through the grounds, right by the house.  Acorn Bank is more renowned for its gardens than the property so we resolved to return the following morning and made our way out along the drive back to the car and onward to our fine room in the chosen hostelry.

Dining in the Black Swan was a bit strange.  The first course was superb and I though we were going to be in for a treat.  Sadly, however, my second course was basically pub grub on a major scale- not one but two pork steaks swimming in mushroom source.  And chips galore..  A case of less is more followed by more is less.  On the other hand, Margaret enjoyed her whale.

In the morning we returned to Acorn Bank and really enjoyed the gardens, both formal and woodland with its stroll down by the river to the old watermill.  

On the way home we deviated by Little Salkeld Mill- renowned for its bread-making flour and having a good little cafe.

Undoubtedly the star of the visit was the Garden of Eden: Acorn Bank and its a gem of a garden.  But the same is true of my dear wife.  A gem.  At all times of the year.  

To answer Frankie Vaughan: No, I couldn't leave her there.  But I will take her back there. Or to be more precise, I'll let her take me back there!

Don, 26th May 2012

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