Westmorland Way

WW05: Hardendale to Shap Abbey

Wednesday 2nd June 2010

Confusion soon set shortly after we left the car parked near the Greyhound Inn at Shap. We were still in No Man's Land as far as our 1:25k maps were concerned and many of the footpaths round here are unmarked. A scantily dressed man with his dog took pity on us and directed us to the right line across the fields to Hardendale.

Having crossed the motorway, with its fine view of the cement works, we emerged at Hardendale by the Eden Animal Rescue Centre, near which we had our first coffee stop.

Shap cement works

Eden Animal Resuce Centre

Although we could see kennels, it was strangely quiet and we thought there were no dogs there. Until we passed the house, that is. There were are least four dogs in the bedroom window!

The Shetland Pony paddoc

No sooner were we through the hamlet than we crossed back over the fields and motorway to Shap, although not quite the way I had intended.

I had expected to emerge near the church which is hidden from view on the A6 and I suspected that it merited a visit.

Instead we struck the middle of the village alongside a paddock of Shetland Ponies.

It was a good day for washing, or to be more accurate, drying, and Shap provided a couple of displays for us.

Shap washing

More Shap washing

Across the A6 and out to the western side, we strode. At the far side of a field, in an old lane, was another man with his dog lying in wait for us. He seemed desperate to have someone to chat to. In broad Westmerian he told us of today's shootings at Boot and then went on to tell us of every suicide in Shap in the last twenty years or so.

Looking back to Shap

Eventually we escaped and made our way down to the pretty hamlet of Keld and the old chapel with its spooky interior.

Keld Chapel

The ghostly interior

More fields led us to Shap Abbey, which I thought was very peaceful in the evening sun although Margaret felt this to be spooky.

Approaching Shap Abbey

The Abbey Explained

The front door tower

Inside Shap Abbey

Looking bck to Shap Abbey

After a second coffee break we returned by different fields and Lanes to Shap, past the Goggleby Stone.

Back across fields and lanes to Shap, stopping at the Goggleby Stone before entering the village. It is a long, long and rather strange place. It looks to me like a community that is trying to better itself.

There are many improved properties but a few where the message (or the money) has not yet reached.

The Goggleby Stone

Awaiting the message!

Another fine display!

Kendal X6

We thought about dinner at the Greyhound. It used to have a very good reputation but we had heard it had gone off. The man in the lane said the same thing- that it had changed hands recently and was not the place it had been.

So, sorry new landlord if we have done you a disservice but I just took a photo of the unusual milestone outside and returned home as the sun set.

I was, by then, very hungry but am delighted to report that standard of meal delivered by the wife continues to excel!

Don, 2nd June 2010