: Red Screes and Sausages
20th May 2010
route was intended to be more or less the reverse of BB0902-
the one in which Pete developed the theory that Bryan
could only navigate if he couldn't see where he was
going and in which having lost Stan we accidentally
rang his wife thereby letting her know he had vanished
in thick mist. We had also had car parking facilities
laid on at Tony's Aunty Ethel in Ambleside.
Tony today so Auny Ethel's was out of the question but
we had another secret weapon in the guise of Mike, the
"unstuffy" hotelier from the Linthwaite
who used his contacts within the trade to secure parking
for us at the Rothay
Bryan also, partly because he, too, has now joined the
grandad club and had other duties. However Stan
was back from an ash affected trip to Spain and Pete
again braved the M6 with a nine mile tailback.
mist was down as we approached Ambleside.
However the Met Office forecast had
been quite prosaic with its promise of it
“Quite atmospheric with shafts of sunlight
breaking through at times lighting up the
clouds and creating pools of light which
will intensify the vivid green spring foliage.”
ensured that we would not go onto the hills
hungry by producing Cumberland sausages,
still warm from the Linthwaite kitchens,
which we duly scoffed.
start was always going to be a bit of a road slog up
the Struggle but I have to confess that Stan and I were
too busy gassing to notice the path off left onto the
fell. That is despite me having had a much less strenulous
virtual stroll up the road on Google Street View the
night before to ensure that I knew exactly where the
path commenced. Pete was beginning the think that perhaps
Bryan wasn’t such a bad fair weather navigator after
once we had established where we were, it was clear
that all we had to do was cross one field and we would
regain the path. Simple. In theory at least.
The problem was threefold. Firstly,
the field was an extremely long one and secondly it
disappeared into the mist. And thirdly it was
rather steeper than if we had gone the proper way. So
it took us quite a while to get back on track. And
on track you need to stay as there are some steep drops
away to the right.
one field to cross
the best way to proceed!
however, despite the mist, it was a fairly simple climb
to reach the two small tarns (the second remarkably
short of water) that presage the Red Screes summit where the steep
drop to the Kirkstone Inn could only be imagined.
thirsty summit tarn
is an excellent nest-shaped shelter at the top so there
we took lunch and lingered for quite some time. No
sooner had we commented that we hadn’t seen anyone all
day when a couple appeared out of the mist. And
then two more couples. Time to go.
Red Screes nest shelter
north nose of Red Screes
we dropped down to Scandale Pass, it seemed, briefly,
as if the Met Office "atmospheric" prediction
would come true. A bit of a wind arose and the
mist started coming and going with occasional glimpses
down to Brotherswater.
view down to Brotherswater
the Pass, we had a decision to make. To continue
to Little Hart Crag and High Pike or to drop down into
Scandale? There was no sign of the mist clearing
on the hill ahead so we opted instead for the descent.
down upper Scandale
is an interesting valley- broad U-shaped in the upper
reaches, more ravined below High Sweden Bridge with
much more vegetation and increasingly open views over
to the Langdales and beyond.
back up upper Scandale
increasingly open views over to the Langdales and beyond.
the view of the Langdales is unusual as normally, in
the iconic view, you can only see two tops but from
here you could see Pike o'Stickle between Loft Crag
and Harrison Stickle.
Crag, Pike o'Stickle and Harrison Stickle
comes into view
a field before Ambleside we spotted a strange construction
in a garden. Mike thought it was a Yurt which
is a Mongolian sort of tent. This one obviously
had a wood-burning stove in it. Nearby was the "Tower
of Beauty" folly recorded in CW09.
of Beauty and Friendship
little further on our way was totally blocked
by a roadsweeper that was about as wide
as the road. It kept backing up, switching
something on that created an awful lot of
dust and then moving forwards again. It
turned out that it was cleaning the road
in preparation for some repairs.
as that track probably gets about two vehicles
a day, someone, somwhere seems to have got
their priorities wrong.
perhaps some local resident has disproportionate
is little more to report. Mike conveyed our thanks to
the Rothay Manor and we drove back with the evening
turning into the sort of day that the Met Office had
lured us into thinking we would have experienced earlier.
20th May 2010
How and the Tower of Beauty
following is an extract from CW09:
day before this walk, we undertook a training
exercise from Ambleside via Low Sweden Bridge
to High Sweden Bridge then down the other
side of the valley. On reaching the
outskirts of Ambleside we saw a strange
ruin, pictured here. It seemed to
be in the grounds of a rather fine house
called Eller How but we could not find out
was going to ask if you could identify the
building or its purpose but first thought
I should google for it and immediately discovered
that it is for sale, if you have a spare
of Beauty and Friendship
is the story of Eller
as per the estate agents.
Originally built by local builders as a small
country house, Eller How has a distinguished history. It was purchased in 1851
by the Clough family. Arthur Hugh Clough, the English romantic poet, lived here
and his sister Anne Jemima Clough, first principal of Newman College Cambridge,
established a small school for girls at Eller How. The school introduced
progressive ideas on teaching and learning and became significant in the
development of child-centred education in Britain. Signs of the school can still
be evidenced today in the boot-room and through the shape of a door in the
present garden room.
The house was purchased by the Boyle family in 1862. The
Boyles were prominent figures in the Potteries where John Boyle was a partner in
the then 'Wedgwood and Boyle' factory. His son Henry, a typical Victorian
dilettante and eccentric, was a keen botanist with a passion for landscape
gardening. It was his ambitious schemes that gave the gardens at Eller How their
present day character. He specialised in rockeries and tropical plants obtained
from friends at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Kew. He built egg-timer ponds,
rustic bridges, flights of stone steps, a fernery, where tree ferns and orchids
grew inside an impressive glass house, kept crocodiles in heated ponds, dug
underground caves and built what has become known locally as the 'Tower of
Beauty and Friendship'. Built on a high mound at the top of the garden, the
tower stands as an elaborate 19th century visitors' book. The names of friends
who stayed at Eller How, including the Wordsworths, the Arnolds, Harriet
Martineau and other womens' suffrage supporters were carved into bricks built
into the face of the tower and can be clearly seen today.
Henry's son Harry
Boyle became a significant figure in the late 19th and early 20th century
British Diplomatic Service, and his biography, 'A Servant of the Empire,'
written by his wife Clara and published in 1936 by Methuen, provides much more
detail about the house and garden in the two chapters devoted to the Boyles life
at Eller How. The family owned the house until Clara's death in 1962.
year 2000 Channel 4 Television produced a one hour documentary, presented by
Monty Don, in their 'Lost Gardens' series, where the fernery, the underground
caves, additional ponds and an ancient home-made water heating boiler were
re-discovered. A video of the programme can be obtained from Channel 4 and
account of its making found in Jennifer Potter's book of the series.
If you want to comment on this report, click on
climbed in feet:
& Stan: 23 Bryan:
7 (all unchanged)
Don, Mike, Pete, Stan
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see which Wainwright top was visited on which BB outing
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This page describes an adventure of BOOTboys, a loose group of friends of mature
years who enjoy defying the aging process by getting out into the hills as
often as possible!
As most live in South Lakeland, it is no surprise that
our focus is on the Lakeland fells and the Yorkshire Dales.
As for the name, BOOTboys, it does not primarily derive from an
item of footwear but is in memory of Big
Josie, the erstwhile landlady of
the erstwhile Burnmoor Inn at Boot in Eskdale, who enlivened Saint Patrick's Day
1973 and other odd evenings many years ago!
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of new BOOTboys reports.
Thursday 14th January
A Snowy Equipment Test
Thursday 21st January
Leave It To The Professionals
Thursday 28th January
That's A Lyth Record
Reasons To Be Cheerful
One, Two, Three
Thursday 11th February
Can You See Clearly Now?
Thursday 18th February
In Memory Of
Almost a Mountaineer!
The Beginning Of The End
Thursday 11th March
The Free Men on Tuesday
We'll Get Them In Singles,
The Fools on the Hill
The Windmills on the Moor
By Lake, Ridge and Wainwright
The Ten Lake Tour (+5Ws)
The Kentmere Challenge
Saturday 24th April
Winter in Springtime
Thursday 14th May
Red Screes and Sausages
The Mile High Club
What A Difference A Day Makes
Saturday 30th January
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