Westmorland Way

WW11: Patterdale to Grasmere

Monday 30th August 2010

It was Jamie's last full day at home before returning to Crete and, weatherwise, it promised to be one of the better ones. We were all anxious to get out into the Lakes, and he provided the key to unlocking the logistical problem which, together with complications of weather and visitors, had prevented us progressing any further along the Westmorland Way in the past two months.

It was a perfect day for drying but fearful of the fact that our route over the hills might not pass many houses, I took a snatched picture of a good exhibition of washing whilst behind the wheel on a bendy road. Very naughty!

Washing on the move!

First sight of Grisedale

Margaret and I alighted at Patterdale leaving Jamie to take the car over to Grasmere. Provided he was able to park (it was Bank Holiday Monday, after all), we reckoned that we should all reach Grisedale Tarn about the same time for a late lunch.

Lower Grisedale

Grisedale team picture

Grisedale was looking at its summer finest as we set off up the road then farm track, gently rising up the valley. We past a strange pink mile or memorial stone and in the distance we did in fact spot a further display of washing.

Strange mile or memorial stone

Upper Grisedale

Eventually the track started to climb more steeply so we stopped for a refuelling coffee break. We could see in the distance a stone building, much higher up the path.

When we got there we were surprised to discover that it was open for coffee and biscuits.

The hut, nestling beneath the Dollywaggon and Nethermost Crags is Ruthwaite Lodge, a climbing hut owned by the Ullswater Outward Bound.

Team picture with Jamie

Distant washing

Looking back down Grisedale, Place Fell behind

Ruthwaite Lodge

Today, as an experiment to raise funds, they were serving refreshments. - if only we had known in advance!

Just as we approached the top of the climb, who should appear on the skyline but Jamie- absolutely perfect timing.

We took lunch by Grisedale Tarn.

This is not the prettiest of tarns but it is in an interesting position wedged between three hills: Fairfield, Dollywagon and Seat Sandal) and three hauses.

Looking over Grisedale Tarn to Seat Sandal

Grisedale Tarn, Dollywagon behind, Grisedale Hause to the right

Fairfield, left, and Tongue Gill to the right

Our Wway down was by Tongue Gill. We had originally planned to take the bridle path but at the junction it was clear that the path down the Gill was the more trod and the more repaired whereas the bridle path was now narrow and traversed a quite steep hillside.

Coniston Fells from Tongue Gill

Coffee stop

As we descended, the skyline was quite dramatic with the Coniston Fells and the Langdale Fells dominant. Then as we got lower Helm Crag came into view. Most people who just travel up and down the A591 and coo at the lion and the lamb don't realise that there actually two lions, one at each end, the northern one also being known as the old lady playing the organ or the howitzer. From our path we could see both distinctly, something I don't recall ever having previously noticed.

The Lion and the Lamb and the Lion and the Lamb

Looking over a Rowan plantation up Tongue Gill

Grasmere comes into view

We passed some interesting buildings with superb gardens to reach the A591 near the Traveller's Rest but resisted temptation and continued along the road and into Grasmere where we did give in to the irresistible charms of English Lakes ice cream!.

Coast to coast marker

Gate, cottage and garden

It had been a lovely walk through spectacular scenery, not as strenuous as I had feared for Margaret but a fitting send-off for Jamie.

Now over the hill, so to speak, the rest of the Wway becomes logistically much more simple and on familiar territory so we should be able to finish it before Christmas!

Don, 30th August 2010