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BB2617 : It's
a Seat, Robert
Wednesday
27th May 2026
I was beginning to form the opinion that the Outlying Fells
book was populated by a series of moorlands with little to see and long trails
to plod. I wondered why AW had bothered
to write it. Had his publishers said to
him “Come on Alf, we need another book to complete the series.” and so he set
about writing about fells that no-one in their right mind would want to visit?
And then! Whit
Week
came and the Lake District got rammed with cars parked so badly that emergency services
couldn’t get through. I was particularly
amused by the farmer who decided it was a nice day to go muckspreading. Farmers always used to pick nice days when
Margaret wanted to hang out the washing.
However this farmer opted to make sure the drivers who parked in his
field without permission should have their cars rewarded with a good dose
of you know what. Imagine the effect on
the convertible with the roof down! Good
on him.
Anyway, these stories renewed our faith in AW and we sought
an outing far away from the madd(en)ing crowds.
The southern side of Swindale Beck was the solution,
travelling via the old Engineer's Road that
leads eventually to Haweswater.
Officially,
the road is closed due to weak bridges.....
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.....
but the biggest problem we encountered were
cows.
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Even so, I was somewhat worried that the
parking area would be full. Last time we
parked there, when visiting the more popular fells on the northern side, it was
full of people getting ready for an U3A walk. On arrival we were asked for our names and subscriptions. Needless to say we provided neither, not
being part of that organisation. So this
time we went early but needn’t have worried.
Hardly anybody about.
One trick that AW played to make his walks seem shorter and
thereby more palatable was only to measure from the point he started
walking. Unfortunately that was the best
part of a mile from the parking area. He had had Betty to chauffeur him
around. We only had Shank’s pony. However I had a cunning plan. Rather than head south along the road, we should
cross the river and head northeast up the hill towards Tailbert Head.....
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then turn south for Langhowe Pike, thereby saving quite some distance and providing a good
view of the lower part of the valley.....
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.....
and a glimpse of the upper part.
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In the valley, where the cuckoos were calling, it had
seemed a pleasantly warm day but on the tops, a cold wind was blowing and I was
glad that I had brought the extra layer that I nearly left behind. Robert seemed to be getting excited. “Are we there yet?”
No, that was Langhowe Pike.
Our next top was Great Ladstones. Like most of the day, it was a long trek over
featureless moorland; energy sapping but no-one to be seen. They must all have been in the honey spots
getting utterly frustrated. Or splattered.
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"Are we there yet?”
No, Robert, be patient.
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Another long trudge across the moor and we were there and the
there where we were was what Robert had been looking for.
It
was his Throne, though the map makers had
downgraded it to a Seat. None the less,
he ascended appropriately and acknowleged the homage from his loyal subjects.
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Indeed he threw a banquet in our honour. Well, at least he insisted on us staying
to eat the butties we had each brought.
According to AW (and his updater, CJ) there is an
Ordnance Survey ring embedded in the ground.
Sadly not no more. There is an empty
circle where it once lay. What has
happened to it? Souvenir? Melted down?
Answers on a postcard, please.
[Afterthought- I suspect it was there
but covered with vegetation and stones.]
At High Wether Howe we could see, in the far distance,
Mosedale Cottage. It’s always boggy down
there but on our last visit it had been awash outside. Today it would probably have been more accessible
but it was too far off our itinerary to examine. It is on another WOLF chapter altogether, so
maybe one day when the crowds are again about.
That was the highest altitude of our outing. We dropped down to the valley via Fewling
Stone and Beastman’s Crag (there are some wonderful names around here, Willy
Winder Hill for example).....
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.....
until we reached the stepping stones across Swindale
Beck. Last time TV
Mike had bravely and successfully crossed over by the stones. Who would do it today? Robert declined, it not being a very regal
way to progress. Stan, Martin and I also
refused so that was an inconspicuous way to reach the end of AW’s outing. We just had another long road slog to return
to where only two more cars were now parked.
Final destination? A
quick check of time and distance led to the conclusion that we would just reach
the Tap by its 4 p.m. opening and so it proved; parking at 3:59 precisely. “My
round,” insisted Robert, “I’m in the chair”.
No, we reminded him. It’s a Seat,
Robert. But we still let him buy the
drinks.
Don, Wednesday 27th May 2026
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