|
Stage
7: Dent to Cowgill
Saturday
28th July 2007
Thanks
to this awful summer weather, it was over two months
since we had last tackled a section of the Dales Way
(and seven months since we started!) so given a window
of opportunity, we grabbed it.
If
I were in any danger of having forgotten how to get
to Dent Station, there was no need to worry as I had
my new friend Snockers (Jane, the younger cousin of
Norma) to whisper directions to me whilst Margaret followed
on in the Yaris. However, Snockers and I had a
serious falling out over which way to go from Sedbergh.
For some reason, she preferred Garsdale whilst
to me Dentdale seemed much more logical. Frantically
she urged me to turn back but when I wouldn't, she threw
a hissy fit, leapt out of her seat and into my lap and
refused to give me any more directions. Gave me
quite a surprise I can tell you. At this point,
however, I should make clear that the seat was on the
dashboard and Snockers is my new Sat Nav and Jane its
voice!
Snockerless,
we drove up Dentdale and found a place to park the Yaris
on the far side of Cowgill. Margaret then joined
me and we returned to Dent, anticipating that we would
have to make another large contribution to the maintenance
of the village toilets but this time we managed to find
a suitable free space by the river bridge, right where
we needed to be to start this leg.
Upper
Dentdale
We
followed the river to its confluence with Deepdale Beck
where, rather than take the stepping stones, we went
up by the beck to Miller Bridge. Here we initiated
a detour from the official route, which heads back to
the river and Tommy Bridge. However, we had reason
to investigate Whernside Manor.
|
Stepping
Stones
|
Whernside
Manor
|
This
fine old Georgian Building is owned by friends of Margaret's
cousin Dinah (whose husband Alan has the original Snockers,
Norma, for use on his motorbike). Whilst having
a nosey over the wall, we spotted Gerry mowing the grass
so Margaret plucked up courage to introduce herself
which led to us being warmly invited in to meet Elaine
and entertained to tea and cake, purchased from the
village auction at which two caravanners had competed
to bid a chocolate cake up to £17! More
stories of Dales life and characters followed and we
left with the instruction that we had to visit the Sportsman's
Inn for a tincture.
Once
boasting 25 slaves and possibly the inspiration for
Wuthering Heights, Whernside
Manor has a long tradition of hospitality
with guests including Lloyd George, Winston Churchil
and Princess Ann and is currently offering bed and breakfast.
Sadly for visitors to Dent Dale, this is not likely
to be continued much longer.
The
official Way rejoined the road not far beyond the strangely
titled "Woman's Land" and on heading up into
the fields we passed a series of farms each of which
seemed to have a different creature to keep an eye on
us. A cock, a horse and a goat preceded a couple
of lamas!
|
Cock
|
Horse
|
|
Goat
|
Lamas
|
And
of course some washing! And a bathing machine
for gnomes!
|
Tubhole
washing
|
Bathing
machine!
|
Little
Town Wood was distinctly spooky and chilly, after which
we rejoined the road. We took another slight diversion
at Ewegales Bridge where a farmer who looked as if he
had been sat there for a hundred years engaged us in
conversation.
|
Little
Town Wood
|
St
James' Church, Cowgill
|
The
Way continues on the south side of the river but we
chose the north side, where we helped weary DofE students
read a map to find their campsite, had our first glimpse
of Artengill Viaduct, admired St James' church and took
our team picture at Lea Yeat bridge in Cowgill. Margaret's
lack of attention is due to the fact that a vehicle
was coming and it was a close call between car and timer.
|
Artengill
Viaduct
|
Lea
Yeat Bridge team picture
|
The
cottage by the bridge was a treat with plenty of flowers
and brass instruments.
The
Yaris was parked just beyond the bridge so we did as
instructed and drove a little further along the Way
for our tincture. Once again, unusual creatures
were watching our every move- this time a pair of motionless
Muscovy Ducks sat by the roadside outside the Sportsman's
Inn. Apparently there used to be three but according
to the landlord's son, the third had been eaten by the
Poles!
|
Cottage
at Lea Yeat Bridgee
|
Sportsman's
In with Muscovy Ducks
|
The
next section of the Way promises to be quite different-
for the first time we can use just one car and catch
a train from Ribblehead to Dent station and walk back. We intended
to go the next day but got up too late and opted for
the Windermere show instead. Sat on the top of
Orrest Head in fine weather, we enjoyed twenty minutes
of aerobatic splendour from the Red Arrows. Thinking
that was all there was, we then set off into the country
and made our way around the back of Orrest Head only
to discover that there was a stunt plane now entertaining
the crowds, and us had we stayed put. Returning
to Orrest Head by Common Wood, the noise got louder-
something much more serious was now showing its paces.
We reached top just in time to see the end of
the Eurofighter's display. I know this has nothing
to do with The Dales Way but it is an excuse to put
in a couple of photos from a memorable event!
|
