BB1538
: Plus de BOOT
It
was cold when we left Liverpool on Monday
morning.
It
was near freezing when we arrived at
Nice.
Snow
could be seen lying on the hills surrounding
Menton.
Artificial
snow was being laid in the town and
sprayed on the Christmas Tree in the
Jardin Bioves.
The
BOOTboys
were back in town after a gap of several
years.
It
was Plus de BOOT.
|
Christmas
comes to Menton
|
Monday
23rd November:
What
Can The Matter Be?
After
lunch, I had business to attend (i.e. a snooze) so I
left Stan and John to wander around the town. When
they returned, John was singing:
Oh
dear, what can the matter be?
Poor
old Stan was locked in the lavatory
He’d
have been there from Monday to Saturday
If
John hadn’t known he was there!
It
seems the technology to unlock the door had temporarily
defeated Stan. Meanwhile angry mesdames were banging
on the door in their desperation.
Tuesday
24th November:
Three
Perched Villages. Closed.
The
bus delivered us to St Agnes, the highest coastal village
in France, mid morning in glorious sunshine.
The
first objective was the Maginot Line Fort. However,
not surprisingly, it was closed. On the other hand
the medieval castle atop the hill was open so we climbed
to this tremendous viewpoint.
St
Agnes from the hill top castle
|
Menton
from St Agnes castle
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Coastline
for miles, mountains for even more. We had earned
a coffee.
Sign
over St Agnes door
Two
of the three restaurants were closed but the third was
almost fully booked for lunch (although no one had arrived).
That was not a problem- we planned to eat in Gorbio.
We
had debated which way to go. One possibility was
the high road, that Stan and I took over the Cime de
Baudon on BB0930
but we thought that too strenuous for a time of year
when daylight could be short.
The
second was the direct route as per BB0625
but I knew that there had been a landslide at a very
steep area. Would we be able to traverse the debris?
The
third option was a middle route about which we knew
nothing.
We
had heard rumours that there was a way
round the blocked section of the direct
route and, if that proved true, we would
be in Gorbio in time for lunch at Chez
Paulo- Les Terraces.
We
decided to take the chance. It was a
good decision. The path had indeed been
swept away at a steep section but people
had clearly found a way round.
In
fact, after a difficult initial six
feet climb, I found the new trail less
intimidating than the old, except for
the blood sucking spiky plants that
had to be negotiated.
|
The
end of the path
|
The
ghost of Stan in the old chapel
|
Inside
the chapel
|
Lunch
was less successful. The café that had
been recommended to us was open but the chef wasn’t
there. No food on sale. Nor was the upmarket
restaurant opposite any use. Closed for winter.
Gorbio
Gorbio
church
|
Comitibus: Gorbio
Gorbio
washing
|
Undeterred,
we decided to carry on to the next perched village,
the even more gentrified Rocquebrune. This took
a little longer than I anticipated.
Orange
tree in full fruit but no leaves
|
The
ridge to Rocquebrune
|
Part
of the route was in shade and very cold. But once
back in the sunshine it proved a pleasant walk along
a ridge offering Mediterranean views before dropping
relentlessly downhill to the village.
Menton
to Ventigmiglia
|
Towards
Monaco
|
I
knew there were at least three cafés in the village.
But, you’ve guessed, they were all closed. So
all that was left was for a further long descent to
the bus to take us back to Menton. At least this
time an old lady didn’t offer her seat to Stan as had
happened on an earlier visit (BB0625)!
Wednesday
25th November:
Stan
makes a young lady happy
This
was intended to be a quiet day partially due to the
weather forecast being somewhat grey. We took
the train across the Italian border to Ventimiglia.
Not being Friday it wasn’t market day so it was
relatively quiet. After a gentle stroll down to
the beach we decided to cross over the river to the
old town.
Take
off!
Flower
stall in the Ventimiglia market hall
|
Stan
on Ventigmiglia beach
|
Ventigmiglia
old town
This
was quite a revelation. Considerable effort has
been put into running it back up and the tardis-like
cathedral in particular was well worth a visit, especially
for its Roman artefacts well displayed in the crypt.
St
George and the dragon
Ancient
wall mural and inscription
|
Inside the cathedral
Roman
horse decor
|
Roman
angels
Now
we were here, we thought we should at least visit the
small hill top below which the town is situated and
which we thought had the remains of a castle. It
proved to be rather higher than we anticipated and less
of a castle (if any) than we thought but there was another,
slightly larger hill a bit further on so we thought
we should visit that. And then again, although
we concluded rather late in the climb that this wasn’t
really worth visiting so we went back to the old town
and found a nice little café overlooking the
sea.
Ventimiglia
from the hill
|
The
view from the café
|
It
was sunny and the lunch was good. The waitress
was a very pleasant young lass who must have thought
it was Christmas when she saw the size of the tip that
Stan left her. He knows how to make a young lady
happy.
Ventigmiglia
washing
|
Ventimiglia
new harbour
|
Coming
back across the border we were reminded how things have
changed in the last few weeks. The first station
stop, Garavan, was full of police who mounted the train
and gave everyone a good staring to ensure they were
not terrorists.
After
returning to Menton, where Christmas was arriving, we
visited the Palais de l’Europe where over 100 photographers
were displaying their pictures.
Amongst
them was Jilly Bennett (BB0836)
who was also acting as judge for the
Best in Show competition and understandably
couldn't be considered for award.
However
she was eligible for the public vote
and so we increased her tally by three.
To
be fair, she deserved it.
Her
theme (as befits a former Cruft’s judge)
was dogs. All in black and white,
full of character and beautifully displayed.
|
Jilly
displays her photos
|
Inspired
by her exhibit, here are some of my Menton Mono Mutts:
Thursday
26th November:
Stan
makes a young lady unhappy
This
was to be the BIG day. Mont Gramondo, standing
4,521 feet not far inland from the sea. Stan and
I had been there before but not John. However,
this time the bus was taking the tunnel under the Col
de Castillon rather than being able to drop us off at
the Col summit. Our walk had to start from the
village, some distance lower down.
Castillon
Church bell
One
for Tony?
|
Castillon
art
A
BOOTboys transport wagon?
|
Once
we reached the Col and could see over to Sospel we had
a change of plan and what a good thing we did. Not
just because it was cold and the days being rather shorter
now than on our last visit. Although we didn’t
know it at the decision point, a bitterly cold and very
strong wind would suddenly spring from nowhere. It
must have been evil on the tops. Instead, we followed
a trail that meandered safely through pleasant, albeit
at times frozen, woodland along the side of a hill then
dropped down towards the valley.
Stan
and John take a breather
|
Sospel
comes into view
|
Just
as we thought we were reaching civilisation it took
a cruel turn. A fence forced us to climb high
again. Being unexpected, our legs were unprepared
for such punishment and it hurt. Eventually our
fortunes changed and we were able to drop down into
the small town without further punishment.
The
bridge to the east side
|
East
riverside dwellings
|
Our
problem now was to find somewhere in the sun where we
could sit and eat the butties we had bought back at
the bus station. Understandably for a place in
the south of France, all the public seats were in the
shade. However on the other side of the river
we spotted a bench by the old public washing vats that
was in full sun.
Pride
of Sospel?
|
The
old wash house
|
Once
refuelled we went back across the river to explore Sospel.
In reality there is little to explore other than
its cathedral.
Outside
and ....
|
....
inside Sospel cathedral
|
So
having done that and faced with a two hour wait for
the return bus we looked for a café where we
could sit outside in the sun.
We
didn’t find one but after recrossing
the river we did find a nice, small
and very friendly café back near
the wash house. We called in for coffee
and, in my case, an excellent crème
brulée.
As
per yesterday, we had good food served
by a very pleasant waitress.
However
Stan, no doubt influenced the ribbing
he had had over his gratuity generosity,
decided that one was not necessary today.
The
poor, unhappy girl must have wondered
what she had done wrong.
|
Sospel
lighting
|
Stan,
on the other hand argued, that over the course of the
two days his tipping policy averaged out just right.
Friday
27th November:
Mr
Nice of Nice?
It
was a fast trip back to the airport but then the fun
started. My rucksack was taken off the security
conveyor belt and I was apprehended by a large lady
speaking rapid French. I thought she wanted to
see the contents of my rucksack so I made to open it.
Non!
Non!
I
feared an intimate search but she painted me with some
strange gel. Top and bottom of hands and shoes.
Then she politely released me. I didn’t
understand what was happening but Stan, who knows about
these things, said that she had confused me with a drug
smuggler and needed to check that I was not carrying
any prohibited substances.
Seemingly
such items leave a trace on the skin that can be revealed
with this special gel.
Mr
Notso Nice?
|
Fortunately
I am not the Nice equivalent of the
infamous Mr
Nice.
And,
as we know from the way Stan sometimes
treats (or fails to treat) waitresses,
occasionaly he isn’t nice.
I
was beginning to think that the "Nice"
accolade should go to John for his unfailing
good humour at putting up with the two
of us!
But
then he deserted us in the airport waiting
area to lord it over us from the executive
lounge. Mr Notso Nice of Nice? Hey-ho!
Nevermind.
|
Thanks,
boys, for your company. You helped make it a fun
and memorable trip.
Don,
Friday 27th November.
This
Train Is For Flu
I
kid you not. It is official. Here
is a genuine, unaltered photo of the
sign in the train carriage as seen when
travelling from Birmingham to Leicester
last Sunday.
|
|
The
fact is not surprising. The honesty is. But
there again, it was extremely crowded. Aaaahhh---tishoooooo!
STATISTICS
|
BB1538
|
Date:
|
Monday
23rd - Friday 27th November 2015
|
|
BB1538a
St Agnes
|
BB1538c
Sospel
|
Distance
(miles):
|
8.7
(Garmin)
|
8.9
(Garmin)
|
Climbed (feet):
|
1,823
(Memory Map)
|
2,343
(Memory Map)
|
Descended
(feet):
|
3,795
(Memory Map)
|
2,898
(Memory Map)
|
Features:
|
St
Agnes, Gorbio, Rocquebrune
|
Castillon,
Sospel, Nice
|
Comitibus:
|
Don, John Hn, Stan
|
Unfortunately
we have no stats for BB1538c Ventimiglia
BOOTboys
routes are put online in gpx format which
should work with most mapping software. You can follow
our route in detail by downloading bb1538a and
bb1538c.
To
discover which Wainwright top was visited on which BB outing
- although it may not be that up to date - or for the totals of the mileages and heights (ditto) see the Excel
file: BB Log.
You
can navigate to the required report via the Home
Page
Photos
have been gleaned from many sources although mostly
from me and other BOOTboys. Likewise written comment.
I apologise if I have
failed to acknowledge properly the source or infringed
copyright. Please let me
know and I will do my best to put things right.
Unless stated
otherwise, please feel free to download the material
if you wish. A reference back to this website
would be appreciated.
Wainwrights
To
see which Wainwright top was visited on which BB outing
see Which
Wainwright When?
This
may or may not be up to date!
For the latest totals
of the mileages, heights and Lakeland Fells Books Wainwrights see: Wainwrights.
Ditto warning!
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BOOTboys
2015
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