BB1131 : The Windermere Three Peaks

Thursday 20th October 2011

Most serious walkers and many non-walkers will have heard of the Three Peaks challenge.  Some might ask whether I refer to the Yorkshire Three Peaks (Pen-y-ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough) or the national version of Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon (with a lot of hairy driving inbetween).  Either way round, the objective is to complete the course inside a given time limit; respectively, 12 and 24 hours.

Fewer will have given much thought to the Windermere Three Peaks.  Indeed, some might be shaking their heads in disbelief, thinking that Windermere is a lake.  Well, so it is (there is a clue in the name!) but it is also a small town along with its Siamese twin, Bowness.  And surrounding the conurbation are three distinct peaks.

Some time ago, BOOTboy Mike, who is the proprietor of the Linthwaite House Hotel, and I had been discussing an expedition that would be a good but not too serious a challenge for his guests.  One that in no way could be considered as a rival to the aforementioned big beasts but providing the opportunity to explore the area through an interesting walk with splendid Lakeland views plus the huge advantage of not having any time restrictions save that of returning back to base in time for pre-dinner drinks and a decent meal.

The Linthwaite House Hotel

Naturally, our start point was the Linthwaite, overlooking the lake just off the B5284. The team for the trial run was Mike, fellow hotelier James (Castle Green Hotel, Kendal), Tony, Stan and me plus Mike's business partner Simon's dog, Millie.

If you happen to be a Linthwaite guest reading this report, please be aware that although it seeks to provide a reasonably accurate, if somewhat idiosyncratic, impression of the features of the walk, it is not intended as a route guide and, if you are unfamiliar with the territory, it is highly recommended that the OS 1:25k map is used to make sure you don't get lost. Having said that, the terrain, albeit interesting and occasionally moderately steep, is not that challenging for the reasonably fit person and you ought not find yourself too far astray!  But do keep an eye on the weather forecast.  Anorak, over-trousers and hiking boots may be advisable as the weather does occasionally seek to refill the lakes. Don't let that stop you going out.  It always seems worse looking out at the rain from indoors than when you are outside walking.

Unfortunately the forecast was for the lakes to be topped up this morning.  However, there was no sign of rain when we gathered at Linthwaite, although the remains of the first overnight frost of the season lingered on the lawns and, in the distance, mist could be seen filling the Langdale Valley.

Frost on the lawn

Mist in the valley

Brant Fell

Mike's guests will, no doubt, start fuelled with a Linthwaite breakfast.  We, on the other hand, did not have time for such luxury although Mike provided us with the next best thing to get us going- a Wabberthwaite sausage!

In order to avoid an unpleasant road slog along the pathless and sometimes busy B5284, we set off from the hotel, seemingly in the wrong direction, south-east along the footpath that leads over to Lindeth.  

Do not enter the drive

On reaching the house, we were told in no uncertain terms not to go down the drive but to carry on to the other side where an unmarked footpath took us down to turn left onto a minor road and then left again onto Lindeth Lane.  

This brought us back to the B5284 but only to cross it and continue up the lane on the other side.  After about 250 yards there is a track off to the left which we took. Once the wall on the left finished there was open fell to be climbed.

Brant Fell is one of those kind little hills that when you first see it, you think it is quite big, but, on climbing, it allows you to access its summit easily and then rewards you with a great view.

From the top you can see virtually the whole of Windermere (the lake, not the town), including a very clear view of the Georgian Round House on Belle Isle, now rebuilt after having been destroyed by fire.

The north end of Windermere from  Brant Fell

The ferry from Brant Fell

School Knott

Our next minor objective was the viewpoint shown, unnamed, on the map as being a short way to the northwest.  Finding it was not a problem but we goofed a bit on the descent.  

The north end of Windermere from the viewpoint

The track down seemed to run off in the wrong direction (northwest) so we took a more direct northeasterly route.  Mistake.  Our route was steepish and obstacled by trees and brought us down to the track which had curled round the hill into the right direction!

Another small tarn

Looking up the lake from School Knott

The eastern fells from School Knott

Those wishing for a slightly more challenging adventure might want to add to the distance and height climbed by continuing a bit further along the Dales Way and bagging Grandsire before returning to tackle School Knott, but today we omitted that option.

Orrest Head

Our descent from School Knott was to the northwest along a path more linear than that shown on the map.  It brought us back to the track that we (and the Dales Way) had left previously, albeit somewhat further north.

After passing round the back of some houses we emerged into a small estate where we crossed the road and followed a stream to a Gill Droomer Stile, a house that makes full use of the water as a garden feature.  Sadly the plants are not at their best at this time of year so here is one I prepared earlier.

Gill Droomer Stile garden

Here we crossed the railway, heading in a northerly direction towards the A591 which we crossed to take the yellow road that continues north.  Before reaching the stream, there is a well marked path to the left with stern warnings to beware of the Bull and everything else that moves.  No problems today although there was an interesting water pump which James tested.

The path up through the woods is very obvious, the only decision point being after a gate where instead of continuing along the track, we turned left, through the wall and quickly came to the summit.  Sadly, the rain decided to join us at the summit but it was little more than spitting.  However, the views up and down the lake were not as clear as they would have been earlier.

The view from Orrest Head that changed Wainwright's life

Orrest Head is the viewpoint that inspired the young Alfred Wainwright, later to become the reknowned writer of The Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells.  He wrote:

I stood transfixed, unable to believe my eyes. I had never seen anything like this. I saw mountain ranges, one after another, the nearer starkly etched, those beyond fading into the blue distance. Rich woodlands, emerald pastures and the shimmering water of the lake below added to a pageant of loveliness, a glorious panorama that held me enthralled. I had seen landscapes of rural beauty pictured in the local art gallery, but here was no painted canvas; this was real. This was truth. God was in his heaven that day and I a humble worshipper.

On a clear day, this is also an excellent viewpoint from which to see the Red Arrows perform at the Windermere Air Show (and doubly exciting if one of them takes you by surprise from behind; deafening and seemingly just a few feet above your head). 

 Red Arrows from Orrest Head

Back to the Linthwaite

The descent from Orrest Head was by the route that most people use for the ascent. An inscription by the fell gate records the fact that it is thanks to the generosity of the widow and daughter of Arthur Henry Heywood in 1902 that this splendid viewpoint has long been open to the public

We followed the main path down, past the metal workers workshop, to emerge close by the Windermere Hotel.

Our way back from here involved paths through the hinter parts of the town, avoiding the shops, but those who prefer to examine at the Windermere emporiums (to my mind a more strenuous option but that's up to you to decide) should head past the railway station entrance then follow the one way system downwards.  

For those who want a longer walk involving lake frontage, take the westerly footpath after St Mary's Church, down to and across the A592, then drop down to the Millerground landing stage.  Follow the lake south below Queen Adelaide's Hill.  For information on how this got its name and other historical features of the area see 10 Facts about Bowness-on-Windermere.  It's well worth a read.

The path along the lake is pleasant but it is a shame that it does not take you into Bowness.  Continue as far as you can then retreat to the A592 near Rayrigg Hall, once the home of slavery abolitionist William Wilberforce.  An appropriate venue as, it is somewhat shameful to have to admit, much of the wealth of the Windermere area, particularly Storrs Hall, derived from the slave trade.  Again, see the 10 Facts for more information.

Once at the A592, walk southwards for about 600 yards then take the footpath up to the left where you climb to rejoin our route.  Don't forget to head west for a short distance to look at the stream viewpoint.

Our path took us round the back of some fine house then swings left following which options to go off to the right then left were ignored.  More fine house could be seen on Old College Lane.  We eventually emerged onto the A5074- the main Windermere to Bowness road below the shops!  

Greetings to shoppers who re-join us here!  Heavily weighed down, I hope, from supporting the local economy!  If not, don't worry, you will have another opportunity lower down.

We continued down this main road, further than I would ideally have liked, past many guest houses.  Three points of interest were to be found on the other side of the road

Down the hill we continued, past the RC church on the left and a more traditional one on the right (thought to have been converted into flats).  

The Mill Beck rejoining

This is also where those who took the lakeside option rejoin our route. 

The path meets a lane going south which we took to go past the bowling green and onto the main road in Bowness.  

This time there was no escaping the shops but the only one we entered was the ice cream parlour just beyond St Martin's Church  on the other side of the road.  Its range would not have shamed an Italian gelateria.

James the Mod spent some time lusting after a Vespa Scooter whilst Tony the Rocker looked on disapprovingly.

A more legitimate way back would be to take the left hand option at the junction opposite the church rising up to pass by the Belsfield Hotel on the right but we would have missed out on the ice cream had we done so.

Our route back then climbed up the A 5074. Eventually we reached Windy Hall Road which ascends to emerge on the B5284, directly opposite the drive back up to the Linthwaite.

Once back at the hotel, we enjoyed tea and biscuits on the terrace (Millie excepted of course) before leaving Mike to look after his guests (lucky people) and Millie whilst the rest of us returned home to Kendal

Linthwaite staff photos?

How we envy those readers who have the time to relax and enjoy the Linthwaite delights! We hope you enjoy this walk!

Don, 20th October 2011

PS If any Linthwaite guests do undertake this walk, or variants of it, please let us know of your experiences.  You can click on to contact us.  Unless you say otherwise, your comments (if suitable for publication, of course!) may be appended to this report.

PPS If you are thinking of other walks that can easily be undertaken from Linthwaite, here are some earlier BOOTboys reports that might give you inspiration:

STATISTICS:

BOOTboys routes ares now being put online in gpx format which should work with most mapping software. You can follow our route in detail by downloading BB1131.

To see which Wainwright top (excluding Outlying Fells) was visited on which BB outing see Which Wainwright When?

For the latest totals of the mileages and heights see: BB Log.

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Archive

2011 Outings

BB1101 :
Wasnfell Revisited
Tuseday 11th January

BB1102 :
Recuperation Scar!
Thursday 17th February

BB1103 :
A Promenade of Pensioners
Thursday 24th February

BB1104 :
The B Team
Thursday 3rd March

BB1105 :
  A Little Bit Of Wind
Thursday 10th March

BB1106 :
A Linthwaite Round
Thursday 17th March

BB1107 :
Home From The Pulpit
Thursday 24th March

BB1108 :
Taking The Brunt
Thursday 31st March

BB1109 :
Up The Spout
Wednesday 6th April

BB1110 :
Not The Royal Wedding
Friday 29th April

BB1111 :
Kentmere Parts 1 & 2
Thurs 5th, Saturday 7th May

BB1112 :
Five Unknown Tarns
Wednesday 11th May

BB1113 :
Gurnal Dubbs Revisited
Thursday 19th May

BB1114 :
A March Through The Mist
Wednesday 1st June

BB1115 :
Brief Encounter
Wednesday 8th June

BB1116 :
Extraordinary and
Lesser Mortals
Wednesday 15th June

BB1117 :
Farewell David Daw
Wednesday 29th June

BB1118 :
West Side Story
Thursday 7th July

BB1119 :
East Side Story
Wednesday 13th July

 BB1120 :
All The Way From Barrow
Wednesday 20th July

 BB1121 :
Suitable For The Guests!
Thursday 28th July

BB1122 :
Graylings In Flagrante
Wednesday 3rd August

BB1123 :
The First Indecision Outing
Wednesday 24th August

BB1124 :
The Second Indecision Outing
Thursday 25th August

BB1125 :
The Tale of Tony's Triumph
Wednesday 31st August

BB1126 :
The Gunpowder Trail
Wednesday 7th September

BB1127 :
Four Lords a-Leaping
Thursday 15th September

BB1128 :
Heversham Head and Mhor
Thursday 22nd September

BB1129 :
Training For The Himalayas
Wednesday 28th September

BB1130 :
Turn Again, Whittington
Thursday 13th October

BB1131 :
The Windermere Three Peaks
Thursday 20th October

BB1132 :
Perfect Pies
Wednesday 26th October 

The Way Of The Roses
12th - 14th September

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 Wainwrights

To see which Wainwright
top was visited on which
BB outing see Which Wainwright When?.

To download a log of heights and miles and which Wainwrights
have been done by which BOOTboy in the"modern" era, i.e. since the advent
of BOOTboys
click on BB Log.